Sligo: W.B. Yeats' Favorite Holiday & The Seaweed Capital of Ireland
with seaweed recipes and a guide to the region
As St. Patrick's Day approaches, I find myself thinking about Ireland, as I often do, where I spent two years delving into its rich tapestry of food traditions while writing a cookbook profiling the food producers along the Wild Atlantic Way, a 1600 mile long driving route spanning Ireland’s entire western coastline. Among the many narratives I discovered, the story of Irish seaweed—its historical ebbs and flows and its modern-day renaissance—stands out as particularly compelling. With over 600 varieties dotting the Irish coastline, seaweed is not just a plant; it's a testament to Ireland's cultural and environmental heritage, now enjoying a revival thanks in no small part to the passionate efforts of the people in County Sligo.
Nestled in northwestern Ireland, County Sligo is the unsung hero of Ireland's coastal culture, often overshadowed by the tourist-heavy vistas of Counties Clare and Kerry. Yet, it is here, in Sligo, where the heart of the seaweed tradition, stretching back two thousand years to the Roman era, beats the strongest. The community in Sligo, interwoven through shared interests in culinary arts, gardening, and wellness, supports and champions seaweed's important place in Irish heritage.
The quaint village of Strandhill, known for its vibrant surfing community, plays host to Voya Seaweed Baths. Established on the remnants of ancient Roman seaweed baths, Voya symbolizes the resurgence of seaweed in Irish daily life. The founder, Neil Walton, discovered the recuperative powers of seaweed baths during his athletic career in Australia, leading to the birth of Voya upon his return to Ireland. Voya's success, underpinned by the vision of Neil and his late (and beloved) father, Mick Walton, has catapulted seaweed from a symbol of destitution to one of national pride. Voya's products, including their seaweed bathing packs, have reached nearly fifty countries, allowing the world to experience the restorative power of bathing in water infused with detoxifying Irish seaweed. Even the Dalai Lama has bathed at Voya!
Mick Walton, in his time, was not just the primary harvester for Voya but also a pioneer in using seaweed as a natural fertilizer, (another seaweed tradition stretching back thousands of years) yielding award-winning vegetables. Mick’s communal plot in Strandhill, laden with excess seaweed from the baths, is shared with the rest of the community to encourage farming and gardening with seaweed, standing as a testament to the region’s commitment to sustainable practices.
Adjacent to Voya is Shells Cafe, a beacon of hospitality and culinary excellence run by husband and wife team Myles and Jane Lamberth. Their cafe, nestled in the heart of Strandhill, embodies the communal ethos of Sligo, serving as a gathering spot for both locals and tourists drawn by the allure of the coast, its renowned surfing culture, and the local cuisine.
Not far from Strandhill was Eithne's By the Sea, now sadly closed. This gorgeous gem of a place added another layer to Sligo's seaweed story. Eithne O'Sullivan, a pioneer in incorporating seaweed into her recipes, has long championed local food producers, cementing her status as a culinary matriarch in Ireland.
Central to the seaweed narrative in Sligo is Prannie Rhatigan, a medical doctor, author of The Irish Seaweed Kitchen, and a global ambassador for seaweed. Prannie's dedication to reviving the traditions of cooking, bathing, and gardening with seaweed has positioned her as a revered figure in Ireland, bringing the nation's ancestral practices back into the limelight.
As St. Patrick's Day draws near, seaweed is a reminder of the enduring legacy and innovative spirit of the Irish people. The story of seaweed in Sligo is a microcosm of Ireland's broader narrative—a blend of history, community, and a deep connection to the land and sea. It's a story that continues to inspire and resonate, bridging the past with the present, and reminding us of the simple, yet profound, ways in which nature enriches our lives.
Wishing everyone a joyful and rejuvenating St. Patrick’s Day!
Your Ultimate Guide to Sligo, Ireland
Sligo, a gem in the rugged landscape of northwestern Ireland, is a haven for history buffs, culture enthusiasts, surfers, and anyone looking to immerse themselves in the beauty of Irish traditions. Renowned for its connection with literary giant W.B. Yeats, Sligo offers a unique blend of cultural richness, nourishing food, and natural beauty. Here's your guide to making the most of your visit:
Historical and Cultural Points of Interest & Must-Visit Destinations:
Yeats's Grave at Drumcliffe Churchyard: Pay homage to one of Ireland's most celebrated poets, W.B. Yeats, whose final resting place is in the shadow of Benbulben mountain.
Sligo Abbey: Explore the ruins of this 13th-century abbey to get a sense of Sligo's medieval past.
The Model, home of the Niland Collection: This contemporary art center not only hosts an impressive collection of Irish art but also features works by Jack B. Yeats, brother to W.B. Yeats.
Voya Seaweed Baths: Experience the rejuvenating properties of a seaweed soak in baths inspired by ancient Roman traditions.
The Buddhist Plum Village: The Open Circle Community of Mindful Living stands out as a distinct sangha in Sligo, Ireland, committed to exploring and embracing the teachings of Thich Nhat Hanh.
Activities:
Surfing at Strandhill: A surfer’s paradise, Sligo's coastline is renowned among the surfing community for its consistent swell and beautiful beaches. Whether you're a beginner or an experienced surfer, Strandhill offers some of the best waves in Ireland. There’s even a surf school for those who are knew to the sport.
Neantóg Kitchen Garden School: Take a class at this magical place, run by the even more magical Hans and Gabi, to learn about regenerative gardening and cooking with locally sourced ingredients.
Seaweed Walking Tours: Get in touch with seaweed maven Prannie Rhatigan of Irish Seaweed Kitchen to book your unforgettable seaweed walking tour along the Sligo coast.
Where to Eat: Restaurants, Coffee Shops & Pubs:
Shells Cafe: A perfect spot for breakfast or lunch, offering delicious meals made with local ingredients.
Lyons Cafe: Known for its home-baked goods and cozy atmosphere, it's ideal for a relaxing coffee break.
The Swagman: With a wide selection of beers and hearty Australian-inspired fare, it's a great place to unwind.
Where to Stay:
The Glasshouse: A modern, stylish hotel in the heart of Sligo town, with views over the Garavogue River.
Strandhill Lodge and Suites: For those looking to stay closer to the surf, this lodge offers comfort and convenience near the beach.
Sligo, with its mix of cultural landmarks, natural beauty, and warm and vibrant local scene, offers something for everyone. Whether you're here to immerse yourself in seaweed culture, trace the steps of literary legends, catch the perfect wave, or simply soak in the laid-back Irish lifestyle, Sligo promises an unforgettable experience.
Happiness is neither virtue nor pleasure nor this thing nor that but simply growth. We are happy when we are growing.
–W.B. Yeats
Seaweed, Golden Beet, and Barley Salad with Creamy Goat Cheese Dressing and Hazelnuts
Serves 4
Preparation Time: 1 hour
Nestled in the heart of Sligo, where the wild Atlantic meets the rugged coastline, this salad draws its inspiration from the local abundance of seaweed and traditional Irish early springtime fare. Utilizing wakame for its subtle sweetness and dulse for a contrasting briny depth, this dish celebrates the diverse textures and flavors seaweed can bring to our tables.
In Sligo, where the sea's bounty meets the richness of the land, golden beets mirror the vibrant sunsets over the Atlantic, and barley adds a comforting wholesomeness. Tossed with a zesty goat cheese dressing and crunchy hazelnuts, this salad is a testament to Sligo's natural larder, ready to brighten your table with its bold flavors and textures. For those exploring Sligo's culinary heritage or simply seeking a nutritious, hearty meal, this dish is an homage to the region's connection to land and sea.
Ingredients:
2 large red beets
2 large golden beets
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup pearl barley
For the Dressing:
8 ounces goat cheese, room temperature
3 ounces cream cheese, room temperature
2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
1 tablespoon whole milk
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
To Serve:
1/4 cup finely chopped red onion
1 cup lightly packed wakame, rehydrated and chopped
1 cup dulse, rehydrated and chopped
1/2 cup toasted hazelnuts, coarsely chopped
Prepare the Beets: Preheat your oven to 400°F (200°C). Peel the beets and chop them into bite-sized pieces. In a mixing bowl, toss the beets with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Spread them out on a baking sheet lined with foil and roast until fork-tender, about 40 minutes.
Cook the Barley: While the beets are roasting, rinse the pearl barley under cold water. Combine the barley with 3 cups of water and a pinch of salt in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, then cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the barley is tender and the water is absorbed, about 25-30 minutes.
Make the Dressing: In a food processor, blend the goat cheese, cream cheese, garlic, milk, and lemon juice until smooth and fluffy. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Assemble the Salad: In a large bowl, combine the roasted beets, cooked barley, red onion, wakame, and dulse. Toss gently to mix. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
Serve: Drizzle the salad with the goat cheese dressing and sprinkle with toasted hazelnuts. Serve immediately, offering a taste of Sligo's coastal and agricultural richness.
Expat Life: Advice, Tips, News and Encouragement
I relocated from America to Europe about four years ago and I’m always being asked what the experience has been like, how to do it, advice for making the process easier, and where to live. It’s tricky, sometimes headache inducing, often nerve wracking, a bit baffling, but not impossible and at least for me, fulfilling, rewarding, and life enhancing. This weekly section explores what I’ve learned (and am continuing to learn) and highlights the most recent news for those who are thinking about exploring the expat life.
This week’s expat news: The OECD Better Life Index recently ranked the countries that come out on top for having the best work-life balance. This week, the BBC offered a deep dive into this index along with data from the HR-Tech company Remote. For many expats, myself included, living in a country that values living a fulfilling life not entirely defined by work is one of the best ways to identify where you will feel the most content and supported.
Top 5 countries for work-life balance, according to OECD Data:
Italy
Denmark
Norway
Spain
The Netherlands
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